Painful Install Win7 From CD and Removing Old Windows Install

I've been lusting after a faster computer. First I'm going to spruce up the old one to see if I can stall off spending money. More memory should help. My old Gigabyte 965P-DS3 won't recognize anything but a FAT 32 Flash Drive so I'm stuck installing Windows from the CD. I threw a couple more GB RAM and wound up installing Win7-64 because I can't stand seeing the unusable memory. I must have decided against 64 originally because the machine only had 2GB of memory. Back then I was suspicious of 64bit driver problems so didn't use it unless I had over 3GB of RAM. Now I would use 64 on everything.

I flashed the BIOS to F14 within Windows and then had a little dance to do with the old Gigabyte-me and JMicron AHCI. Those were the days. I see originally I used IDE so I must have given up on AHCI. This time I set JMicron to IDE for the CD and set the orange Intel controller to AHCI for the hard drives. It worked.

This thing is snappy, maybe I'll keep using it. Every item working in Device Manager. Now to OC a bit. Something had happened long ago and I had reset it to stock. Nothing big, 2719 Mhz should be enough. I have not tested it yet and maybe won't. I ran it faster than this previously. I'm trying avoid crawling into the case to clear cmos. I seem to remember the jumper was cleverly placed under the graphics card or heat sink. Same guy who thought up the Ctl-F1 trick presumably.

I didn't trust things working and I need to use it so did a dual install and now I'm stuck with the old OS system partition. I'll probably just leave it but it does bug me. I know it is possible to get rid of it with some risk but I need this thing for work. I don't want to install everything and then decide to risk removing the partition. The easy way would be to back it up with EaseUS, delete the partitions and restore. Thinking ........
Another thing not to worry about. Partition Wizard merged the newly formatted old OS partition in front of the OS partition without incident.

Well that was nothing to worry about. In Windows Disk Manager I right clicked on the Windows partition that I wanted to be active and made it so. Until I rebooted it looked like nothing had changed but things changed. Before I rebooted I ran EasyBCD and made sure that my desired partition had a boot menu (which was unnecessary). I used EasyBCD's bootloader setup and installed BCD and wrote MBR to the desired drive. (Windows install has a mind of its own as to where the boot files are. I just looked on one old HP refurbished with C: and D: drives. The D: drive never had an OS and did not originally come with the machine but it was the boot drive. Now I know why the recommendation of only having one single drive attached when installing Windows 7. I ran EasyBCD and wrote the files to C: and both the computer and I are happier. Actually EasyBCD is no witch doctor. You can do it all with Diskpart and BCD editor but the pain is not worth the geek credits.

Then when I rebooted and checked disk manager, deleting the old partition was now available. I held my breath, deleted the partition and rebooted successfully. Making the partition active and EasyBCD installing proper BCD and MBR was the key. Now I want to join those two partitions. More thinking .....

I'm going to try Partition Wizard "moving and resizing". If it tanks, I have an EaseUS system backup ready to save the day.

Found this handy old OC guide: (I have mixed RAM so expected trouble be none showed.)
Remember ctl-F1 to access RAM settings. (wow, who thought of that?)

Once the BIOS screen is up, hit Ctrl+F1 to turn on all the tweaking extras (required for all Gigabyte mobos).

 Go into the Advanced BIOS Features section and set the following to Disabled:
- Limit CPUID Max. to 3
- CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)
- CPU Thermal Monitor 2(TM2)
- CPU EIST Function

Why are we disbaled-ing them? They're throttling functions that will throttle back the CPU... which we don't particularly want.

 Hit Esc to go back to the Main Menu then enter the PC Health Status section and the Fan Speed Control Method to Disable (not necessary in the long run, but I do it anyway since the fan is pretty quiet at full speed).

 Hit Esc to go back to the Main Menu.

-  Enter the MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) section and do the following:
- Set CPU Host Clock Control to Enabled
- Set CPU Host Frequency (MHz) to 376
- Set PCI Express Frequency(MHz) to 100
- Set System Memory Multiplier to 2.00
- Set DRAM Timing Selectable to Manual
- Set CAS Latency Time to 5
- Set DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay to 5
- Set DRAM RAS# Precharge to 5
- Set Precharge dealy (tRAS) to 12
Most RAM will actually work at 4-4-4-12 but this is a guide for lazy people so I figured I'd go with 5-5-5-12 since it's bound to work.

20 minute test is good enough