Showing posts with label router. Show all posts
Showing posts with label router. Show all posts

Sunday, July 16, 2017

Multiple Routers and Powerline Adapters

***Installed Orbi and Satellite. Wow - range, speed and even my TP-Link Powerline works. Just plain blown away. ***

***Then there is powerline. They also work well until they don't. I have not tried MOCA (internet over coaxial cable). Many homes have cable to each area and reports are good on these unitl.***

All of this works great until it doesn't. The TP-Link powerline adapters started raising havoc with my wifi connections. Just saying. I ordered Orbi. We shall see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFdGsLofmds


1.   Set up main router first by entering its IP into a browser.
2.   Use the main router's IP as the pattern ie 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 etc.
3.   *Set main router channel to 1
4.   *Set main router SSID to desired eg. "FBI_Surveillance_Van"
4.1  While here set the channel width. Default may be 20Mhz better at avoiding collisions than 40.
5.   Leave main router DHCP enabled
6.   *If main router DHCP assignments start at 1, change that number to 10 (or desired)
7.   Set up second router
8.   Connect directly with network cable from PC to a LAN port on the router
9.   *You may need to hard reset the router (Google for procedure)
10. *Set the channel to 6
11. *Set router SSID to desired eg. "NSA_Surveillance_Module"
12. Turn off DHCP
13. Change the IP to 192.168.0.2 or 192.168.1.2 etc.
14. When you reboot the router, you will not have access.
15. *Plug the second router into the main router using LAN ports on each router.
16. You should now have access entering 192.168.0.2 (or whatever) into a browser.
      (Of course today I can't access the setup page with 2 connected to 1 for some reason - so mileage may vary on this. But #2 still connects fine to devices.)
17. A third router can be added using channel 11. (This I have not yet done.)
18. *These are not separate networks. This is all the same network.
19  For 2 separate networks IPs would be like this: 192.168.0.1 and 192.168.2.1. The third triad is           the one that counts in this case. You may wish to use 20 instead of 2 for greater separation.

*1   Channels 1, 6 and 11 do not conflict with each other.
*4   Most routers have 2 radios, 2.4Mhz and 5Mhz. Differentiate names for proper ID.
*6   This leaves room for the added router's fixed IP and additional IPs if desired.
*9   With the power on, press the little recessed button on the back of the router for 30 seconds. Then         unplug the router for 10 seconds. If doesn't work look it up.
*10 With only 2 router you may want channels 1 and 11 to keep things apart. (Check the neighbors)
       You might then allow 40Mhz channel width. This only helps with connection not speed.
*11 Use different router SSID names. You want to intentionally connect under this setup.
*15 Internet Powerline Adapters work for this if dwelling wiring is compatible.
*18 One convenience is the ability to access all router setup pages on the network.

Linksys E2000 Advanced Wireless-N Router is my #2. Manual
Factory reset on this puppy is push reset for 30 seconds with power on. (Don't Hurry)
Disconnect power for 10 seconds.
After changing IP from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.0.2 to match my #1 TP-Link 192.168.0.1, I could not access the Linksys 192.168.0.2 even with direct cable link. But when I plugged it into the TP-Link I could access. Seems logical but ?????. I guess I've never previously tried to direct cable access a router with any final digit larger than .1

The E2000 2.4 delivers 300 Mbps and the TP-Link 2.4 (a better router) delivers 150 Mbps. Nothing to do with the dual setup but aggravates me. Not sure what's up. I get almost 900 Mbps with 5 Ghz on the TP-Link. (These are simply the Windows status numbers) The actual performance seems fine. I'm not sure what is going on with the reported bandwidth.

By the way, I am feeding the Linksys with Powerline adapters and the master is plugged into a power strip. Yes, it works fine :) My Echo Dot with my old stereo in my garage is blasting away. My adapters are a mixture of TP-Link 500 and Zyxel 500ish. I would love the new TP-Link AV2000 but have no need for the extra speed. My streaming is flawless. Yes, I will likely get them anyway . . . just because.

I just bought TP-Link 2000 powerline units and the old Zyxel units will not work with the new TP units. The slower TP units do work.

Useful Software:
WifiInfoView v2.26
Wifi Analyzer
TotuSoft Lan Speedtest
TL-PA9020P Utility

Somehow my TP-Link 2000 units lost connection and it was a pain to get them linked again. I moved the base (the one hooked to the router) from a power strip to a wall outlet. Not help. I updated the firmware on each of the four units. Maybe did the trick. And I unplugged them all and started with base > 1 (verified connection) > 2 (verified connection) as so on. Unplugging them all may have been all that was needed. After all, they did previously work. No idea why they quit in the first place. I suspected something was screwy because I could no longer access the .2 setup page. Once I fixed the powerline link, I could once again access the .2 setup page.

Here is a snap of the utility you will need for updating firmware. Firmware needs to be downloaded separately. It show 3 of the four units but not the 4th. It may show if I manually enter its code but I'm not running up 2 flight to do it. The performance of he 3rd flight unit is spotty. Not sure why yet. Not seeing it in the utility must be a indication of some problem.

So, I unplugged the upstairs unit, took it to the basement and plugged it into the nearest outlet to the base unit. I pressed the sync button on the upstairs unit and the top green light started blinking as usual. Then I went to the base unit and pushed its sync button. The upstairs unit not had a green light for the little house icon which I assume is internet. The third green light is network. I returned the unit to the second floor and plugged it in. The little house light was red to start but did turn green. It is working again for now.

And now I can see all four units in the utility. It's a beautiful thing :)


When the powerline goes down I resort to connecting to the TP-Link Archer C7 in the basement on 5Mhz of all crazy things and it works quite well most of the time but the distance is a little far for comfort. It can get flaky at times.

If I can't get this 3rd floor issue sorted out I am considering the Netgear Orbi. It grates me to spend $400 just to get to that 3rd floor bedroom. I call it 3rd, it is really second floor but 3 floors with the basement. Darn, the Orbi had just dropped to $360 and I almost pushed the button.

As long as I am obsessing about this, here is a location drawing with a possible 3rd router.


Saturday, March 15, 2014

TP-Link Travel Router

TP-Link
0721xxxx password (this number is on the router)
TP-LINK_B4E2F0 (this is the broadcast sid)
here are the setup page passwords
admin
admin

You may need to hard reset each time you set up new WISP. I read that somewhere. So far I have only set this up at home and it worked well. You also need to be wired to it each time a net WISP is established.

connect cable
tplinklogin.net
quick setup
survey (brings up network sids)
connect to desired wifi (hotel router for example)
reboot router (a soft button on the setup page)
disconnect cable
log in to tplink sid

http://www.tp-link.com/en/support/download/?model=TL-WR710N&version=V1#tbl_j

for usb instructions
http://www.tp-link.com/app/usb/

to access usb drive:
For Windows Vista/7:
Go to Start
Type "run" in the search box
Open the run application
Input "\\tplinklogin.net" in the dialog box.
Click OK

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Reset Your Modem or Router?

My internet is slow, what can I do.

Charter or other Internet Provider (IP)
  connects to
Cable Modem (the IP's cable connects to the modem for internet signal, the modem is often rented from the IP and is their responsibility to keep working or replace. The modem has one in and one out connection to provide signal to one single computer or a router to distribute (route) signals to multiple devices. You can connect a computer directly to the modem with an Ethernet cable and run speedtest.net. This would eliminate the router and accesspoints and show if the modem works properly. In reality, if the wired internet speed is slow it is usually a modem or IP problem and not the router or access points. Modems, like all things electrical, may need to be unplugged from electrical current from time to time and be reset. If speed is slow try this first before calling IP. Disconnect power from both the modem and the router and wait 15 seconds. Now connect power to the modem. Then connect power to the router. This is all very simple.

Modem (disconnect power for a time to reset)
Router and access points (disconnect power for a time to reset)

Check your speed with some online speed test. Search for it by name "charter speed test" etc. Or use speedtest.net.

You should now know which piece of equipment is causing the problem and either call the provider or buy a new piece of equipment.

Why would I post this? So I don't need to write it again.

Saturday, June 16, 2012

My New (Refurbished) Netgear DSL $40 Modem Router


Edit: This is has been a great modem/router. It has not skipped a beat in a year with 5 heavy stream users in the house. I am considering buying another just in case this one goes down.

Netgear DBND3300v2 for $40 off eBay factory refurbished. It looks brand new. I had to reset by inserting paper clip with power on until power light showed red before accessing the setup page. Default log in is admin and password. Default IP is 192.168.0.1.

Here are the settings for Centurylink because the wizard will not set it up correctly:
Basic settings
Does Your Internet Connection Require A Login? NO

Internet IP Address:
Get Dynamically From ISP

Domain Name Server (DNS) Address :
Get Automatically From ISP

Under ADSL settings
Multiplexing settings:
LLC-BASED
VPI: 8
VCI: 35

It would not update firmware because it insisted on trying to use the most recent which was for Germany only. I had to download the latest for North America manually and then install. Worked flawlessly. Current firmware V2.1.00.53_1.00.53NA

The DBND3300 is beautiful to look at but I would not try to sleep with it in the same room. The LED display is 4th of July competitive. Think NORAD at DEFCON 5 in all its light flashing glory. Would I buy this again for $40? Yes, most definitely. Just be aware that you will not be doing Roku at N speeds because the N radio is 5 GHz. and Roku is 2.4 GHz only.

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